Holiday in Thailand

Carrie: Back in Bangkok and it hits me – this air is terrible! At the start of our trip we were coming from China, so when someone mentioned Thailand’s pollution we’d shrug and say, “Really? We hadn’t noticed.” But now after time in less populated areas I’m finding it tough to breathe.

We returned to Sukumvit on Nut Guesthouse by bus (they depart about every half hour from Phetchaburi) on Wednesday the 20th. That evening we did some awesomely productive shopping back at MBK, which is an enclosed air conditioned mall full of small shops and stands like you’d find at an outdoor market. It’s a popular hangout for Bangkok teens and a great place to get a good deal. We took a short walk from the Siam Skytrain station but it is closer to the National Stadium station on a different line. On the third floor there’s a shop called Ten Ten where you pick out computer games, DVD movies and TV shows, and MP3 collections and they burn disks for you in about 20 minutes for 100 baht ($3) each. On the same floor is a women’s clothing store called Pena House where I finally found cute shirts in my size. Asian street markets have great deals if you fall in the “One Size fits most Asians” category, but even with my Chinese weight loss I am still too busty. After much frustration it was great to find a shop with LL to 3XL in simple styles.

The next day we intended to get up and go see the Grand Palace, but we (surprise) drank a bit and stayed up too late the night before. I updated our plans to head to Lumphini to see the park and night market after having a sunset drink at a rooftop bar. Stupid Lonely Planet failed us though, it recommended two rooftop bars in the area but specified that Sirocco Sky Bar had an enforced dress code but said nothing of the sort about Moon Bar at Vertigo. So off we went, but when we reached the lobby of the swanky Banyan Tree Hotel I started to get nervous. When we reached the 59th floor there it was, a notice that guests must wear trousers and closed toed shoes. We might have gotten away with the Crocs as closed-toe, but there was no passing off Jesse’s cargo shorts as trousers. I swore at the stuffed up pr%cks as we headed back down the elevator. With his polo and my new clothes, I thought we looked pretty good, but not good enough for them! But after grabbing an iced coffee and quiche at Starbucks, we went to the park, hoping to brighten our mood.

Lumphini Park was a lovely escape from the city. We decided to be silly and go out on the lake on a swan shaped paddle boat, which Jesse repeatedly tried to steer into a fountain to get me wet. But after living in China, we were shocked to find that no smoking was permitted in the park. It’s outdoors! In Yongzhou the doctors smoke in the hospital! Haha

Next door is the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, which has everything you could want, from tourist trinkets and t-shirts to fashionable home décor. We wandered about for a while and then went to get some dinner and drinks. Foiled again! It seems that the 21st was a Buddhist holiday of some sort, so there was no alcohol to be had. Disappointed, we headed back to our guesthouse, assuming (correctly) that they would turn a blind eye to this ban.

It seems that we weren’t destined to make it to the famous Grand Palace on this trip. On the day of our departure we couldn’t get up and ready in time to make it there and back without worry of missing our flight. So we hung around the guesthouse and I bought a few Western treats at Lotus Supermarket (Caesar salad dressing, Reese’s Peanut Butter cup cookies, etc). At the airport we were sorely disappointed to find that they didn’t have our beloved Sangsom Thai “whiskey”. We had planned to bring back as many bottles as possible. Oh well, we made it back to China with little drama, ready to get back to teaching.

In conclusion, THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT THAILAND:

• Toilet paper, soap, and a towel in nearly every bathroom
  
• Tom Kaa soup (made with lemongrass, mild gingery galangal, and coconut milk – it’s sour but rich)
  
• Smiles, everywhere for everyone, they are a symbol of Thailand
  
• “Most of the food tastes like candy or fire. I like candy. And fire.” -Jesse
  
• The most beautiful flowers we’ve ever seen, sold on every corner and growing naturally in unexpected urban places
  
• Grips of geckos- keeping us company, eating nasty bugs, generally being cute (Aaron explained to me that a grip is a unit of measurement for between 100 and 150 items. I still think he made it up.)
  
• Everyone in the larger cities has at least one tattoo, even the prissy-looking girls
  
• Warm water beaches with friendly vendors
  
• Cruising on cheap motorbike rentals
  
• Cute local dogs, sleeping anywhere they like
  
• Flavorful curry that is as spicy (or not) as you want it
  
• Leo Beer (tasty, affordable, beloved by native Thais but overlooked by foolish foreigners)
  
• Unbelievably tasty Italian, German, and American food at a good price
  
• Most people speak English, and don’t hate you for not speaking Thai
  

THINGS WE DON’T LOVE ABOUT THAILAND:

• This is the cool season, and it is still really damn hot
  
• The relentless mosquitoes, who don’t give a damn about DEET spray or incense coils when there’s fresh foreign blood to be had
  
• The terrible acne I got on my forehead and chest
  
• The ugly nasal sound of Thai women calling “Healooooh! You want Maaasaaage?!”
  
• Men insisting that we must see a Ping Pong show and the general sleezy feel in Bangkok
  
• Obnoxious local dogs, barking and fighting at 6 am
  
• Men who look better as women than I do
  
• Vendors who refuse to bargain after quoting an unreasonable price
  
• #1 reason: It’s not China! We miss our friends and the routines that we’ve become comfortable with. We’re starting to understand how China works, and it’s feeling more like a home. Also, Thailand is just too easy. Where’s the sense of accomplishment in travel, shopping, and eating when you can ask for help in English and get all your comforting Western products? Our vacation was great, but as with anywhere, I got restless again, and it was time to move on…